Monday, 3 January 2011

Difficult conditions on Creag Meagaidh.


Pitch 1

Headed in to Creag Meagaidh yesterday with Ken and Hannah to have a look at last post(V,5). There were only a couple of teams in front of us but they very quickly started to grab any lines that were free. A quick check of the guide book and we decided to go for South post direct V,4 and low in the grade so the guide book says. I started up the first pitch and it soon became obvious it was going to be a hard day. The going was slow with very brittle ice and huge areas of ice dinner plating off. What looked like a steady pitch of IV,4 ending up feeling like a 40m stiff pitch of V,5. Any way we carried on and Hannah lead the next ice fall climbing smoothly on another stiffer pitch than it looked. We soon found ourselves under a very steep looking crux pitch. With failing light and difficult conditions we opted to head out left onto the grade three finish. We topped out in the dark and had a long and tiring walk off. Other parties in the corrie also reported difficult conditions with quite a few teams backing off and a lot of falling ice from climbers almost causing a few accidents. Cheers to Hannah for the photos.

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