Saturday, 8 January 2011

Good conditions in stob Coire nan Lochan

Ken and I headed up to Glen Coe this morning to go and have a look at Scabbard Chimney (V,6). It was a very sociable walk in as we bumped into some friends that were aiming for the route next to us on Summit Buttress. It was quiet when we arrived in the coire but once we had started climbing it soon got busier. The conditions on Scabbard were excellent with good firm snow ice in the back of the chimney and someone had already dug out most of the gear. The route is a fantastic one with sustained climbing through all three pitches. It does continue to the summit but we decided to ab off after the difficulties and got to the ground in one.The route has been bugging me ever since Alex and I had backed off back in November and it is great to get it done.
As for the rest of the crags there was some digging required which made the going a little slow for some teams but the mixed is in excellent condition. Other teams were on Ordinary route, Dorsal arete, Twisting gully, Forked gully and Raeburns route. There was also a team on Inclination(VII,8) and the Duel (IX,9).

Ken Seconding the second pitch.

Ken leading pitch Three.

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