Sunday, 23 January 2011

The Groove climb.

With the freezing levels forecast at about 1100m Ken and I decided to head back up the Ben. After yesterdays beating we fancied some thing that should guarantee success so we headed to The Groove climb (V,6) which is a couple of lines left of the slab climb. I started up pitch 1 which gave 30m of quite bold and insecure climbing. The snow was helpful neve in places but the slow thaw of the last couple of days have started to take effect as my axes were shearing through the wet snow in places. I finally made it to the belay with a little bit of relief, only to find the cave belay was just a little tight and I could only just turn around.
Ken came on up and after a lot of grunting by me we managed to swap the rack around and Ken set off. Pitch two was only 10m but had a few fierce moves from the belay that involved some good hooks and some useful neve and applying some rather brutal chimneying tactics.
Pitch 3 was just a 60m pitch of about grade III or IV to get to the belay. A 60m abseil and a bit of down climbing got us back to the foot of the buttress. A good route but stiff for the grade I think.
John and Guy climbed Slab climb and Wendigo and kindly retrieved our nuts from yesterday (cheers boys) and there were plenty of teams on Green gully again. The cloud was low today so couldn't really see much more but it seemed quieter than yesterday.

Not really got any photos today. I was either climbing or belaying in my tiny little cave which is shown above.

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