Tuesday, 26 April 2011

Sun on the slabs.

Ken and I headed up to The Etive slabs today to have a look at The Long Reach (E15b). Both have us have done all of the route here at or below this grade and this was the last one to do. It is a long and sustained route with seven pitches and five of them are given 5b. We started up the first pitch which gave a nice 30m pitch and low in the grade. Thankfully all the talk of the rock fall last year having possibly altered the grade was wrong. Pitch 2 was a sustained pitch and took us up to the overlap. The 5a moves over this are entertaining and nothing like the rest of the climbing on the lower part of the route. Pitch 4 unfortunately turned out to be a bit more run out than we would of liked. The guide book talks a bout a niche that you need to head to and if missed ups the grade to E2. We found the niche but there was still no gear to be had. So after a lot of looking and a lot of talking we decided that the only options were to make the move with a possible 30m fall, try and down climb 15m of 5a padding on the slabs or run away. So we ran away and traversed onto the Pause on our right and finished up this.

Ken padding through the crux of pitch 1.

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