Thursday, 12 January 2012

Aonach Mor East Face

I was working for Abacus Mountain Guides yesterday with a couple on Aonach Mor. We headed round under the Nid and continued round under the back Coires chair lift. On the way round we concentrated on movement skills including kicking steps and walking/climbing in crampons. We carried on up the ridge bounding the North side of Coire an Lochain towards the climbers col. By this time the temperature had risen and the rain had set in. We climbed the broken ground on the left of the ridge at about grade II and topped out into some pretty strong winds. 

The crags on the East face still look to be holding some ice as Guy and Kenny reported a couple of days ago and the turf is still frozen. Given the drop in temps today I would think there would be some routes worth doing over the weekend. All we need is some fresh snow and the buttress routes would be good too. A word of warning though, there are some very big cornices at the moment and unless you want to spend hours digging through you might want to try and pick a route that would be relatively clear for the top out. 

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