With the freezing level forecast to be around 1100m Avi and I headed up to the east face of Aonach Mor today looking to find shelter from the westerly winds and some firm snow. There had been a brief freeze overnight and the snow had firmed up with an icy crust, it all looked promising.
We abseiled down Morwind but out of the wind the snowpack was still wet and yesterdays thaw hadn't really penetrated, the freezing level did rise above the summit today and we had some light snow showers.
The route was in reasonably condition with useful turf under the snow and gave us three great pitches of climbing at III,4. There is some useful ice about covering the rocks but this has made gear hard won.
Tomorrow is looking drier and colder again so the snow covering the lower slopes will be great neve, routes below about 1000-1100m should give some great climbing. Today I was working for Lakeland ascents
Things got a little grey and wet but Avi just kept smiling.